Wildebeeste, zebra and eland stampede across a grassy plain. Gerenuk and impala browse in the acacia thickets, while a giraffe family parades past under the looming backdrop of Kilimanjaro. A bateleur eagle circles overhead, watched warily by a family of crested francolins. This is the Eselenkei conservation area, a recent and most promising addition to Kenya's protected regions. Covering approximately 60 square kilometers and located in the heart of Maasailand only 20 kilometres north of Amboseli, Eselenkei is an important dispersal zone for the wildlife of that park. As well as the species mentioned above the area also harbours lion, leopard, cheetah. fringe eared oryx, lesser kudu, Thompson's and Grant's gazelle, jackal, hyena and serval cat. Elephant are currently only sporadic visitors to Eselenkei, but now that there is permanent water from two new boreholes they are expected to become much more settled here. The habitat within the conservation region consists partly of commiphora woodland and partly acacia savannah with some open plains. Lying just below the 4,000ft contour the area has an ideal climate nearly all year round, with warm, sunny days and cool nights. In spite of being only three hours driving time south east of Nairobi Eselenkei is in some ways reminiscent of much more remote parts of northern Kenya. For example many of the birds are dry country species such as von der Deckens hornbill, white bellied go away bird, buff crested bustard, straw tailed whydah, rufous crowned roller, white headed mouse bird, pale chanting goshawk, pygmy falcon and brown snake eagle etc. The conservation area came into being as the result of an agreement between a Kenya registered company, Porini Ecotourism Ltd, and the members of Eselenkei Group ranch. The agreement was first signed in May 1997 and its main objectives were to establish an area for the conservation of wildlife which could then be utilised for eco-tourism to generate an income and economic benefits for the group ranch members. In this way the community of pastoralists would no longer be entirely dependent on domestic livestock. With the blessing and support of the Kenya Wildlife Service, the encouragement of a number of wildlife conservation agencies including African Wildlife Foundation, African Conservation Centre, Born Free Foundation, Care for the Wild and UK Rhino Group, as well as vital financial assistance from IFAW, the International Fund for Animal Welfare, the far sighted project is in the process of coming to fruition. In return for exclusive rights to the conservation area Porini Ecotourism pays the community an annual rental which increases by 10% per annum. Porini is also responsible for paying the group ranch an entry fee for every visitor to the conservation area as well as a bed night fee for any visitor staying overnight For the past three years, under the resolute leadership of Kenyan tourist expert, Jake Grieves-Cook, Porini Ecotourism has pressed ahead with some essential infrastructure development. Two boreholes have been drilled, four waterholes established and 50 kilometers of game viewing tracks have been made. Fifteen men are permanently employed on maintaining these tracks. There is also a field force of ten uniformed rangers. Thanks to the presence of these rangers, and the support of the group ranch members, there is now a total absence of poaching, snaring or harassment of wildlife. Project manager, Emmanuel Onetu, has played a crucial role in helping to obtain local community good will towards the conservation area. At the time of writing (early February 2000) a luxurious tented camp is nearing completion and low volume, high quality, personally guided safaris will be commencing in a very few weeks. To retain as much as possible of the wild and unspoiled ambience of the area, and to minimize the impact on the environment, visitor numbers to Eselenkei will initially be limited to a maximum of eight at any one time. Up to now the area has hardly been used by tourism, so animals are not yet habituated to vehicles, and therefore rather shy. In view of this and to offer a complete contrast, every Porini safari to Eselenkei includes a full day in Amboseli national park where of course close-up viewing of elephant, buffalo and other game is virtually guaranteed. To facilitate the Amboseli day trips, a small new bushtrack is about to be opened between the southern part of the conservation area and the northern boundary of the park. From my own experience I know that driving through the wild and lonely "veldt" of Eselenkei, en route to a secluded camp, makes a pleasing way home after a busy day in Amboseli. The Eselenkei Conservation area is a relatively new project but it protects a valuable region of a much older Africa. A place where sand grouse by the thousand fly in to drink at the water holes, where a lesser kudu bull flits away through the commiphora scrub while out on the plains great herds of gazelle and zebra graze peacefully. A place where Kilimanjaro stands tall on the southern horizon and where the haunting grunts of a lion come softly on the night air - "Hii nchi ya nani? Yangu, yangu, yangu..." ("Whose country is this? Mine,mine, mine...") Regular departure three and four day all four-wheel-drive safaris to Eselenkei and Amboseli are being offered by Porini Ecotourism at very affordable rates. They include activities such as night drives and walking excursions. For more information contact Porini's main booking agent: Gamewatchers Safaris, P O Box 48010, Nairobi, Tel 523129, Fax 520864, email: info@gamewatchers.co.ke